After putting away my advanced design tools, I went out to the garage and cut out the template. I used a jigsaw, and contrary to my warning in my last post, I really didn't have the right blade for the material I was cutting, so it ended up splintering quite a bit. No worries though, I just got my trusty Dremel tool out with a sanding wheel and touched it up.
Using a chainsaw file I cut a notch around the tops of both forks about 1/4 of an inch down. For some reason I don't have a good picture of this step, but you will see the notches later on in the pictures below. After getting it sanded and the notches cut out, I was able to shake some saw dust off my clothes and come inside where it was much cooler and finish the process. You can see the notches in this picture, they are there to help hold the bands in place.
Okay, we now have a slingshot frame, what about bands? Here is what I use to make my bands and pouches.
You can buy ready-made band sets online, some that even come with pouches that are already attached. I find it is cheaper and just as easy to make your own. I'm by far not an expert at the process, but when attached to my slingshots, they seem capable of flinging my projectiles down range with a satisfactory velocity, so I guess they work. I like tapered bands, so I usually make them wider at the fork end than at the pouch end. For this particular sling shot, the bands I made are 1 and 3/4 inches wide at the fork end and 1 1/4 inches wide at the pouch end. I folded them before attaching them and they have a nice firm pull weight.
Now the attachment of these bands is not something that I can photograph with any real success. This is also the part where I tend to get frustrated and grumpy. After a few deep calming breaths though, we are left with a set of bands that are now attached to our slingshot forks. There are videos online that you can look at to see the process. Trust me, they do it a lot faster and better than I ever do. Notice the way these bands are attached, they are placed so that when the slingshot is drawn, the bands extend up and over the forks. This produces a natural whipping action that sends the pouch and the projectile up and over the forks, preventing fork hits, but also allowing you to make a slingshot with a much lower fork profile.
Now, we need a pouch. I just cut mine out of a small scrap of buffalo upholstery leather that I had here at the house. It is 3 ounce leather, making it about 3/16 of an inch thick. It is perfect for pouch material, very durable, very flexible and easy to cut. I just cut out a square of leather, this particular pouch measured 4 inches long and 1 and 1/4 inch wide. I folded it in half and punched two holes in it using a leather punch. I also took a pair of scissors and rounded the corners. This was more of an aesthetic modification than something that is done to make it perform better.
From here, you just need to attach the bands to the pouch, making sure that they are tight and straight. Again, I would suggest looking online for a video of pouch attachment. I wound a bit of paracord around the handle for this last picture. I didn't have a chance to shoot it, the day ended up being busier than I expected. I'll take it out in the backyard and see how it shoots hopefully tomorrow.
This has been a long post, filled with a ton of pictures. But before you click away and look for something else to read, here is a picture taken from my back deck facing down into my back yard. We have a family of white tailed deer that come through almost every night. I was finally able to get a nice picture of one of the bucks that came through a week or so ago, notice he still has velvet on his horns. Truly a beautiful animal.
Thanks for reading, happy carving, or slingshooting, or doing whatever it is that makes you happy.